Hughes Kimberley Calling

I was disappointed that there was so much cloud during our flight as this was over some of the most spectacular countryside Australia has to offer. Deep gorges and at this time cascading waterfalls in a landscape as old as time itself. As we began our descent into Kununurra the cloud lifted and unlike the surrounds of Broome, this was mountainous. Those of you who have been to Alice Springs, it is a little reminiscent of the MacDonnell Ranges, ancient, craggy mountains that have been blasted by the ravages of this harsh and relentless climate. It was so lush and green, an absolute contrast to what it will become in a few months when the rain ceases altogether for 6 months.

Lake Argyle was enormous, and is the confluence of 5 rivers that roar during the wet season. As Kununurra has the Ord River irrigation scheme, there was the extensive patchwork of agricultural fields and waterways that spilled widely.

The descent was very painful for my ear and I must have had some sinus infection lurking as I was scared I was going to burst an eardrum. Maybe that’s why my asthma has been giving me such hell over the last few weeks?

We were met at the airport by the Sales Manager of Argyle Motors, where the sisters leave their car for servicing while away He delivers it back when the flight arrives. We had a “troopie” (land cruiser troop carrier) which was a good thing given all our bags and the shopping that needed to be done.  We headed straight to Coles and spent $600. It is expensive to start a pantry and but all your cleaning products, cooking oils etc. Interestingly, all the bread is frozen as it comes from Darwin (2000km away). A sign over the fresh chicken bay stated that due to road flooding no chicken was available. I suppose when the roads may be closed for a few days, a load of fresh chicken is too big a risk. Mike and I were pleasantly surprised at the cost of items. In most cases they were comparable with home although almost everything had been transported thousands of kilometres. Our shop was very quick but large as we were conscious that it was now approaching 6 o’clock and would be dark before we arrived at Warmum.

Driving to Warmun could only be described as absolutely awesome!!!!!! Ancient, craggy mountains followed the road close by on both sides the whole way. They were covered in green and the grass leading up to them was thigh deep and a green that was a beautiful contrast to the orange/ red of the rocks and soil. In places waterfalls cascaded down the hill sides. We left Kununurra by crossing over the mighty Ord River which was roaring down to the sea. Our turn off to Warmum was about 50km down this road on to The Savannah Way. During our 200km drive we saw one roadhouse, a turn off to the Argyle diamond mine and 2 signs, Lisadell and Mabel Downs, the names of 2 large agricultural holdings. No other sign of human activity (beside the road which was a sealed one all the way) was evident. Warmum did not even rate a distance marker. The road sign stated Halls Creek and Port Headland . The sense of space here is absolutely unbelievable. As we drove along this road I commented to Mike that very few people in the world are as isolated as we were now. Only a handful of cars passed us the whole way.

Night began to fall and little wallabies were occasionally spotted on the road’s edge. The sign announcing Warmun eventually loomed in the dark.  We turned down a dirt road, Robinson Road (home for the next year), next to the road house. We were pleasantly surprised with our home. It was certainly better than a “donger”. It was set up to house 2 single teachers. Leanne Hodge, a former colleague of mine at Milperra and now the new deputy principal greeted us and cooked us a great dinner. We had a late night as Juliette was so keen to set up her room.